I went on the WW2 in Italy travel study program for the first time in 2008. My nephew Christopher had found this course at UNB and he, his friend Brandon Kelly and I went on the study program. Christopher had told his grandfather (my father) that someday he was going to go to Italy and see where his "grampy" had fought. One of the main highlights of that course was to watch Christopher deliver his battlefield presentation on the first two days of the battle for Ortona as experienced by D Coy of the Loyal Edmonton Regiment (LER) in which his grandfather served. He gave his presentation while standing on Via Giudea in Ortona with his grandfather's kit bag slung over his shoulder. When that kit bag had first arrived in Ortona being worn by his grandfather in December 1943 both Ortona and the world were different places than they were in May, 2008. I am sure that during that presentation I felt my father's spirit looking down with some satisfaction on his grandson who had come to see and learn more about what historical randfather had experienced in "The Courtyard of Helll' and the 'Little Stalingrad" as Ortona came to be known by.
From the beginning of this trip, we were told that we are now historians. For a business student this could be a little bit troubling. Nevertheless, it provided a motivation to think differently and adapt to the new surroundings. This course isn't just about the facts and numbers of the Second World War; it isn't just about the statistics of won and lost battles. It is a personal and evocative experience. These young soldiers walked and fought along the same ground that we are walking. This is so much more than the facts and statistics that a business student could focus on - It is much more important to feel the history.
Today we began our exploration of the areas around Monte Cassino. In order to maintain our understanding of the war from more than just the Canadian perspective we began our day by heading to San Pietro. This was a small but ancient town on high ground of the valley leading to Monte Cassino, making it crucial land to be occupied. The Americans would take the task of gaining this position while other nations fought for other valuable pieces of high ground. In the process of liberating the city the Allied forces used a great deal of artillery barrage, which destroyed much of the city. Evidence of this damage can still be seen in the old city as you see old walls that were once buildings and the destruction of their beautiful church. After we spoke about the military operation that took place we entered the museum to further our understanding of what the civilians would have gone through.
[Editorial note: Today, the group moved from Ortona to the town of Cassino with an afternoon stop in Castel di Sangro. The UNB group first visited Castel di Sangro in 2014 after being connected with Alessandro Teti, who is a local historian. On May 14, he arranged a visit to the town Municipio where the students had an audience with the mayor, Angela Caruso, and the group was presented with a plaque and each student his and her individual medal. The group was joined by Alberto and Federico Spicciolato who were there as translators.]
Today, on our 8th day in Italy, we had a completely unique experience as well as some travelling. The plan for the day was to begin by visiting the Sherman tank outside the city of Ortona. It was fascinating to see a Canadian tank up so close and personal and it is without a doubt a true honour to Canadians that an Italian city would present a Canadian tank with such pride. From then it was on the city of Castel Di Sangro. It was there that I probably witnessed the most surprising thing of our trip so far. The reception we received as a group was incredible and unlike nothing I had ever experienced before. You could tell that the group who met us had high appreciation and respect for Canadians due to the bravery and service of their ancestors from Second World War. We started our visit in the city by meeting the mayor who greeted us in Italian. [Editorial note: Editorial note: Before walking the streets of Ortona to consider the battle for the city, we take the students to the Ortona museum. This year we were fortunate to meet Tomasso Cespa who was a young child during the war; he now volunteers at the museum so he can welcome visitors and tell his story.]
On May 13th the travel study group had the opportunity to visit the Museum of the Battle of Ortona. The museum was established in 2002 to remember the tragic events that took place in December 1943 when the Germans and the Canadians came face to face in combat. The museum contained photographs, documents, artwork, plastic models, and artifacts from the battle. Not only did the museum focus on the soldiers that participated in the battle, but it also focused on the impact it had on the civilians of Ortona. This interested me and I wanted to know more about what the citizens of Ortona had to endure during the battle. While in the museum I came across a poem written by Tommaso Cespa that had a great impact on me. [Editorial note: While in Rome, we visit the site of the G.A.P. March 23, 1944 partisan attack that killed 33 soldiers of the Bozen SS Regiment. Via Rasella is a quiet side street near Piazza Barbarini. The bullet holes are still visible on the building near where the attack happened. We ask the students to consider why the city of Rome has not refaced the building to remove traces of the bullets and also why there is no plaque. If you did not know the bullet holes were there one might just walk on by without seeing them.]
While in Italy, we have been following the Italian campaign path from 1943 onwards. I've learned many things that I wouldn't have been able to learn in a class room. Italy is a country that was struck by war and still has signs of that war. Through out this trip we have witnessed many war torn cities, and within these cities are unchanged buildings damaged by gunfire. Going into the Italian battlefield tour, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. I had completed another travel study with UNB the previous year in which I had gone to Poitiers and Paris, France. It had been an incredible trip and was part of the reason why I decided to sign up for another one. But nothing could have prepared me for what I was about to experience with this tour.
Where do I begin with my Italian battlefield tour? Overall it was an amazing cultural experience that I would repeat if I could. My professors are amazing who love what they do, which is evident when they teach. Sure the Italian views are outstanding, but even when Lee or Cindy taught I was captivated by their energy. There were so many moments on that trip that I will never forget. One in particular tends to stick out...
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AuthorsParticipants share reflections on their experiences during and after the tour. Some posts link to the Gregg Centre for the Study of War and Society's blog, Studeamus bellum causa pacis. Archives |